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Blog - Jim's Thoughts

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Argentina Tours and Travel

Best of Patagonia / Hiking the Patagonia Classics / More Patagonia Treks / Hidden Argentina / Firecrowns & Penguins
Buenos Aires / More Patagonia / Iguazu Falls / Lake District / Salta / Mendoza /
Ibera / Valdes Peninsula /Antarctic Cruises
Expedition Cruises / Best of Northwest / Mountain Bike Tours / Uruguay Escapes / Tango, Candombe & Samba

VALDES PENINSULA TOURS

The Argentine shoreline on the South Atlantic is over 2800 miles long. Its numerous gulfs, bays, inlets and peninsulas host a great variety of wildlife. The warm Brasilian Current and the cold Malvinas Currents mix along the Patagonian coast allowing a wide diversity of ocean life, including subtropical species. The Patagonian land mass ends abruptly in the sea, forming high cliffs. Centuries of water and wind erosion have formed, at their feet, rocky shelves and wide sandy or stony beaches on which the colonies of marine mammals find perfect shelter. When the tide is out, the "restingas" are visible; these are rock formations holding a rich variety of subaquatic life forms, which are exposed at low tide.

Areas such as Valdes Peninsula and Puerto Deseado congregate such unique species as Southern Right whales (from late June to mid December), various species of dolphins, orcas, southern elephant seals, South American sealions, Magellanic penguins (from late September to March), and various species of cormorants among others. All of these areas are ideal for birdlife viewing and sailing together with some mountain bike and hike in the lower Chubut River valley. Together with the wildlife, Welsh settlements are to be visited and the famous Welsh Tea will be ready for visitors! A true wildlife paradise! You can visit Peninsula Valdes all year round. Summer season lasts from December 15 up to March 15. Whales season is from June 15 up to December 15.

There will be a feature for BBC Wildlife Magazine on the world's top 10 wildlife spectacles, as voted for by more than 500 of their top experts (photographers, writers, film-makers, conservationists), and orcas hunting sealions by beaching themselves was voted number 3.

Most of the people go to Trelew and Puerto Madryn, so most of the hotels are the there.. But the Patagonian coast does not finish there. From Comodoro Rivadavia to the South, there are lots of small towns where you can see lots of fauna, the same as in the Peninsula. In fact there are some places where you can find animals you cannot see at peninsula Valdes, and the other point is that you will never find lots of people there, for everybody goes to Peninsula! So that is another reason why you can see more animals.

This trip south is just ideal for real naturalists, and people who just want to go and see lots of fauna. Some popular places on the coast where you can see lots of wildlife are Puerto Deaseado, Bahia Bustamante, San Julian, and the new National park, Monte Leon.This is the first Coastal national park in Argentina, and it has been a great effort to be able to create it. The coast in South Santa Cruz is different than the Peninsula, as it has lots of cliffs.

So for people who just want to see some animals and is not so fond, I would recommend the classic Trelew and Peninsula tours that we can arrange, but for someone who really loves nature and animals, and wants to see Patagonia as it really is and was a long time ago, south Santa Cruz is the best option ever!

 

See "The Living Edens" on PBS

FAUNA CALENDAR:

Fauna
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
whales
penguins
sea lions
sea elephants                        
orcas                        

Sample Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive Trelew and transfer to a hotel in Puerto Madryn. Populated from 1886 as a railway junction, immigrant workers flooded in from Europe as the railway network expanded. Both Welsh and Italian language and traditions are still very strong here.

Day 2 - A complete day enjoying the beautiful landscapes and wildlife of Peninsula Valdés, one of the few places in the world which offers the possibility of watching so many animals in their natural habitat. After crossing the Ameghino Isthmus, from where you can see Golfo San José and Golfo Nuevo, you enter the Peninsula. On the way you will see the wildlife of the area: guanacos, rheas (choiques), Patagonian foxes, hairy armadillos, maras and the most important rookeries protecting large colonies of South American sea lions, dolphin gulls, kelp gulls, among others. The road will finally lead you to Puerto Piramides, a beach that, with its gentle slopes, is protected by cliffs resembling pyramids, where there are fossilized invertebrates of more than 9 million years old. From here, you will travel across the Peninsula, enjoying the landscapes and the fauna. You will visit two of the three elephant seals reserves (Punta Delgada/Caleta Valdés/Punta Norte). In Caleta Valdes (a thin leg of land parallel to the coast) you will be able to observe the elephant seals colony and a small developing Magellan penguin colony.
OPTIONAL: Whale watching navigation - 1 hour - (additional cost of US$29)

Day 3 - Departure towards Punta Tombo crossing the rugged landscape of the Patagonian steppe and its contrast with the deep blue sea and the marine fauna. Visit to Punta Tombo, the most important breeding colony of Magellan penguins in the world. You will walk through a trail which cuts deep into the colony to observe closely these fascinating birds. Other species such as kelp gulls, skuas, guanay cormorants, giant petrels, dolphin gulls, the Chubut steamer duck, hairy armadillos and Patagonian foxes also inhabit the area and may be seen here. On the way back you will visit Gaiman, a typical Welsh settlement. The first settlers were looking for a virgin territory to be able to found the "New Wales" and follow their own rules and customs without being molested. At present, you can still discover the attitude that characterized these first inhabitants of the town by walking around the streets of Gaiman, which still keeps its village essence, sprinkled with farms, typical chapels and Welsh-style houses. And the main attraction are the Welsh Tea Houses, where the descendants of the settlers prepare and serve the greatest classic Welsh tea.

If you have a flight leaving after 5pm, you can transfer to the airport today, without visiting Gaiman.

Day 4 - transfer to the airport today.

2009 price per person in US$ with group tours: $279 for 1 person for 4 day itinerary or $224 with transfer out on day 3, $214 for 2 people for 4 day itinerary or $192 with transfer out on day 3. (valid till March 31, 2009)

Can also quote for private tours. Price does not include hotel. We can quote for hotels from 3-5*

Peninsula Valdes Escapade

Day 1 Trelew airport – Puerto Madryn
After our arrival to Trelew, we drive to Puerto Madryn. We visit the town, which was established by 1886 while the railway construction, attracting Welsh, Italian and Spanish immigrants. Still today the Welsh and Italian traditions and language keep their influence in this town.
Lodging: Hosteria Double or Single room with private bathroom.
Meals we provide: None

Day 2 Puerto Madryn, Península Valdés
After breakfast we drive to Peninsula Valdes, World Heritage and paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. We start our visit in the Visitor Centre, which is located in the Isthmus Florentino Ameghino, from where we get panoramic views of both New and San José Gulfs. We continue to Puerto Pirámide, small village in the south shores of the Peninsula Valdes. That is our key point to see Southern Right Whales, which visit the area from May thru December. An optional boat trip to have close up views of the whales is available. We continue our visit to Caleta Valdés, which offers a wide range of both marine and land life, including sea lions. We then visit the Light House of Punta Delgada. We also visit today the Great Salt Depression, possibly the deepest depression of land in South America, and then the Isle of Birds with its incredible variety of birds. We get back to Puerto Madryn by 6 pm.
Lodging: Hosteria Double or Single room with private bathroom.
Meals we provide: Breakfast and lunch

Day 3 Penguin colony of Punta Tombo, Gaiman.
This day we’ll go to Punta Tombo, the biggest continental Magellan penguins’ reservation, if the tour is taken between the months of September and March (since this is the season when they arrive to the area). If it is taken in any other time out of the range of months we’ll go to Punta loma, where we’ll watch the colony of sea wolves. In the afternoon we will visit Gaiman, a beautiful town founded by the welsh community in 1870. It still maintains its traditions and original architecture. Gaiman has to offer us (as optional) a delicious tee with typical welsh cakes. Later we go back to Puerto Madryn.
Lodging: Hosteria Double or Single room with private bathroom.
Meals we provide: Breakfast

Day 4 Transfer to Trelew airport
After breakfast we transfer you to Trelew airport. End of our services.
Meals we provide: Breakfast

2010-2011 price per person in US$: $691 in single, $562 in double. High season supplement of $28 for departures Nov 1-Jan 31

Included:
Incoming services
Bilingual guides (Spanish English) during all the excursions
3 nights lodging in Hosterias double or single room with private bathroom
All transportation as shown in the itinerary combining private and regular buses.
Trasfer Trelew Airport – Puerto Madryn – Trelew.

Not included: National Park fees , Medical and life insurance , Tips , Drinks , Optional excursions , Air tickets and airport taxes
Services not detailed in the program




Bahia Bustamante

Bahía Bustamante is a seaside village entirely surrounded by nature. It is located on the northern arch of San Jorge Gulf, an area characterized by its important biodiversity. There are few places in the world that house such a number and diversity of seabirds and marine mammals. Since 1952, the village has been exclusively devoted to the harvesting of seaweed. At the beginning, 500 people lived there, using wagons pulled by horses to collect the crops. Today only 40 inhabitants live in Bahía Bustamante, devoted to seaweed production, which makes this place a world's unique "seaweed village".

On the other hand, the village is surrounded by 70.000 hectares dedicated to wool production. This place invites you to enjoy a deep blue sea contrasting with red rocks, a petrified forest, sea and steppe birds, sea lions, killer whales and dolphins, guanacos, Patagonian hares, lighthouses, starry skies, aboriginal working areas and cemeteries. And, above all, this remote and exclusive village on the Patagonian seaside offers you somewhere completely different - a place full of peace and safety.

Four comfortable houses by the sea have been remodeled for guest's accommodation. Each house has two twin bedrooms, living room, kitchen, one fully equipped bathroom (that will be shared with other guests), heating and hot water. At the grocery store, exclusive regional meals based on own products such as sea-weed, lamb, fish and sea food are offered. Vegetarian or any other special diets must be advised in advance. After checking in and having lunch, you will have time to begin to explore this natural paradise where the Patagonia expresses itself in its 360 degrees!

Depending on the time and weather conditions, you will have time to enjoy the activities offered such as: Sailing along Malaspina Cove, visiting Sea Lion, penguin and several Seabird colonies, bird watching, visit a Typical Patagonian Ranch or the Seaweed Factory, visit Archaeological Sites such as aboriginal working areas and cemeteries, panoramic trekking, fishing, mountain bike, visit to the Petrified Forest. It is also possible to enjoy its exclusive beaches with white sand and crystalline water, surrounded by strong red coloured rocks, which offer an incredible landscape of textures and colours.

" Discover the remaining fossils of forests that existed in Patagonia 60 million years ago. You can see huge petrified tree trunks that have become rock with its characteristic glow of opal, which has replaced the tree's original organic material. You can also appreciate tree rings, traces of bark and many other features.
" Participate in daily ranch activities such as marking, weaning, sheep shearing.
" Birdwatching. The coast of Bahia Bustamante and Malaspina Cove has the greatest diversity of seabirds in all Patagonia.
" Visiting Sea Lion and Magellan Penguin colonies on the islands and beaches.
" Mountain bike, horseback riding and trekking.
" Navigation around Malaspina Cove visiting sea birds and sea lions colonies. 1500 metres away from the village you will find the embarkation zone in a well protected little ria. Going out from the ria, once in the cove, you will sail over the seaweed walls. It is possible to see the ships dedicated to the seaweed harvest. After this, you will cross the mussel cultivation zone with a system of harvest called online. Further from the coast you will reach an archipelago to approach the Malaspina Rock, where sea lions and cormorants have settled their colonies. Continue through an archipelago composed by the Vernacci Islands. During the navigation you will have the opportunity to watch Sea Lion (3500 species in reproduction season), Penguins (60000 species) and colorful Sea Birds colonies. It is common to appreciate a group of dolphins or see an orca dorsal fin. When the ship gets close to the islands you will watch a big quantity of species of Pato Vapor (Tachyeres pteners), another important attraction of Bahia Bustamante. This duck is one of the hundreds of bird species that live in the area.

SAMPLE PROGRAM:

DAY 01: Arrival at Comodoro Rivadavia Airport. Meeting and transfer to Bahia Bustamante (180 km from Comodoro Rivadavia).
Accommodation and visit of the small village to get acquainted with the area.
Meals: Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner

DAY 02: Visit to the Petrified Forests.
Meals: Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner

DAY 03: Navigation to Caleta Malaspina to see the sea lions rookeries and interesting colonies of birds. Balance of the day to enjoy the views over the coast or any other activities in the area.
Meals: Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner

DAY 04: Transfer to Comodoro Rivadavia.

2009 Price per person double occupancy = US$740 for 2 people, US$676 for 4 people

REGULAR TRANSFERS TRELEW- B. BUSTAMANTE-TRELEW:from October 15th to February 28th, Bahía Bustamante will run regular transfers to & from Trelew. The regular transfer will operate on Fridays and Mondays with the following timetable and remarks:

TRELEW AIRPORT-BAHIA BUSTAMATE: Departs at 10:00 from Trelew Airport, stopping at Trelew downtown hotels if neccesary, continue along Route 3 and arriving at 13:30/14:00 to have lunch. During the afternoon they can enjoy of some activities arranged by the hotel to begin to explore the area.

Important:
The transfer will not wait for delayed flights as it is a regular service with fixed circuit and schedule. If the passenger booked the regular transfer and is not ready at the airport to leave at 10 am, he should take a private transfer to Bustamante and the hotel will reimburse the cost of the regular service.
Passengers lodged at Madryn or Gaiman hotels will have to reach Trelew Airport at 10 am or Libertador Hotel at 10.15 am and leave a contact phone number.

BAHIA BUSTAMANTE-TRELEW AIRPORT: Departs at 15:00 so it allow to enjoy the morning at Bustamante and leave after lunch, stop at Trelew in case someone lodges there or at the MEF, ending at the Airport around 18:30/19:00 hs.

This new regular and direct service to Bahía Bustamante will allow to reduce transfers costs improving the combination with the Whales Watching.

Remember that since August is a good time to watch the whales and to visit a working patagonic estancia as on August 5th begins the sheep shearing of 20,000 animals. In Bahia Bustamante the shearing lasts 5 weeks. This place summarizes the Atlantic Patagonia and the steppe as you can access from the same place a wide variety of activities: typical patagonic estancia + petrified forest + beaches & sea + sea fauna watching (penguins, sea lions, cormorants, skuas, petrels, steamer ducks among many others + seaweed industry).

We want to share this piece on Bahia Bustamante that has been written by Dr. Flavio Quintana, an independent investigator for The Nacional Research Council of Argentina. Through his words you will discover a marvelous place that is a perfect destination to have an authentic Patagonian experience and have the chance of seeing a lot of wildlife safeguarded from other tourists.

"I have been carrying out my field work at Bahia Bustamante on ecology and conservation of different seabird species breeding in the area. During all this period I was witness of the continuous and strong growth of Bahia Bustamante as a tourist area targeting on developing sustainable tourism. With the leadership of Matias Soriano, this small seaweed harvesting village became one of the most well-handled eco-tourism initiatives located at the north end of San Jorge gulf. Bahia Bustamante is a unique wild area along the pristine coast of Patagonia, Argentina.

This area is considered one of the key sites in terms of marine biodiversity, along coastal Patagonia and one of the priority areas for breeding seabirds in Argentina. All these natural components of Bahia Bustamante and surroundings are highly valorized under the frame of the current tourism initiative. From the beginning, Matias Soriano asked for expert's advice (*), to take appropriated management measurements, to hold surveys of animal populations and to evaluate any potential negative impact on the flora and fauna. This eco-tourism novel initiative has been contributing to the research and conservation of wildlife and its marine and terrestrial habitats for some time now.

During the last two years (*) tourism facilities announced a clear advance. More comfort was brought to the village, by providing better communications, incorporating satellite internet, improving telephone quality and replacing the whole gas and light installations** the improvements denote a high and responsible dedication and compromise with the development of sustainable tourism."


Orcas in the Southern Seas

ORCA means 'demon' and it was the first scientific name given to this species (Delphinus orca Linnaeus) before the genus Orcinus appeared. KILLER WHALE may be a derivation of "whale killer", the name given by the whalers who first saw the Orcas feeding on Whales. The largest of all dolphins, male orcas are 8 meters long and can weight over 8 tons, while females can reach 7m and a maximum weight of 4 tons. The dorsal fin is one of its most distinguishing features. Male fins are tall and straight. Females' and young orcas are smaller. Orcas feed on marine mammals (Dusky Dolphin, Bottlenose Dolphin, Commerson Dolphin and Southern Elephant Seal, Southern Right Whale and specially Sea Lion pups), fish, birds (Giant Petrel, Magellan Penguin, Great and Silvery Grebes, Cormorants, Sand Perch) and marine turtles. So it is easy to understand how important orcas are in the ecological chain. They live in all the oceans and seas of the world, both in cold and warm waters. Orcas have gregarious habits: female and male adults and young orcas, thus, live altogether in groups. Mating usually takes place when groups converge so that they don't mate between relatives and females give birth every 10 years. Pups are born during fall and winter. However, there are two different populations of orcas: transient orcas tend to develop a hunting technique on marine mammals and form groups of up to 7 individuals; resident orcas, on the other hand, feed on fish, live in groups of 5 to 50 individuals and tend to stay in one area for long periods. Males are believed to live 40 years and females 60.

ECHOLOCATION or SONAR is the system Orcas use to find their preys. Orcas unleash a rapid series of high-pitched clicks, by listening to the echoes reflected off by the body of the prey the Orca is able to locate them no matter how dark the water is.

"INTENTIONAL BEACH STRANDING" or BEACH-STRANDING ATTACK technique consists in positioning preys. Punta Norte Orcas fish on sharks, sea salmons and elephant seals. When females come to Caleta they are often seen stranding intentionally, even though there is no prey in the area. This is to teach their pups, which generally follow and mimic their mothers until adulthood. Since this practice is very dangerous for the orcas because of the risk of remaining stranded permanently, it is done gradually and can occasionally be seen as group of training: several females will strand simultaneously, parallel to each other with the calves in between.

Peninsula Valdes extends outwards in the Southern Atlantic 100km. In only two places Orcas have been seen catching sea lions by "intentional beach stranding", one of them is Peninsula Valdes (Caleta Valdes & Punta Norte). A group of orcas visit Punta Norte (the northernmost point of the Peninsula) every year. It is also a sanctuary for sea lions, elephant seals, dolphins and many species of birds. In Peninsula Valdes they are seen throughout the year, specially near Southern Sea Lion and Elephant Seals colonies probably because of the abundance of prey. Orcas can be seen here twice a year : Oct / Nov and Mar / May. For Roberto Bubas, the Argentine expert, the group of Valdés orcas offers magnificent opportunities, because though they come and go all year round, the coastline geography allows close-up observation, even when the orcas are not hunting. Peninsula Valdes has a natural sea channel, Caleta Valdés, which resembles a river and is protected from the strong currents and fierce winds. The orcas have adopted this place as a resting area where they can practice their stranding. Now and again, they hunt for large fish such as sharks or sea salmon, as well as elephant seals. Usually orcas come to Caleta Valdés in a relaxed and playful mood. Roberto spends most of his time here, following them on foot while making identification drawings of their fins and observing the newcomers and the pups growth.

Great photos from Estancia La Ernestina

DAY 01: Arrival in Puerto Madryn or Trelew Airport and transfer to Estancia La Ernestina. Accommodation. Dinner (beverages not included). La Ernestina is located in Peninsula Valdes, 180 kms from Puerto Madryn and 240 kms from Trelew Airport.

DAY 02 TO 03: Estancia La Ernestina: full board & accommodation. Visit to Punta Norte and nearby beaches to watch orcas.

DAY 04: Transfer from La Ernestina to Puerto Madryn or Trelew Airport. Breakfast.

IMPORTANT: Please note that you may spend many hours per day looking for "orcas", but it is not guaranteed that you will effectively see killer whales nor killer whales catching sea lions even in the suggested periods (Oct/Nov & Mar/May).

Price per person double occupancy for 2010 : US$1134 (3 days = US$857 per person)

Includes: 3nights with full board (beverages not included) at La Ernestina, transfers during all the program, entrance fees to reserves, activities such as: Horse riding, mountain bike, sulky ride, sheep shearing, self guided paths, farm, 4WD dunes, 4WD Punta Norte Lighthouse, Sea lion and Penguin Rookery.